Quilting By Design

Quilting is becoming more popular as trends keep pace with home improvement, home decor, and crafting. Add to this the idea that people are beginning to embrace traditional activities from years gone by. It is true: What is old is suddenly becoming new again.      Many of us have been quilters for quite some time; even when quilting might not have been seen to be an acceptably “cool” activity. Some people quilt as a means of relieving stress, as a form of relaxation, for utilitarian purposes, for extra income, or as a hobby. No matter why you quilt, there is nothing more frustrating than beginning to sew your quilt top together, only to find that the pieces do not fit! There are two (2) key reasons why your quilt top pieces may not fit together correctly: 1) Inaccurate sewing (which is an entirely different article!), and 2) Inaccurate cutting.      This article covers the latter and should provide you with a few fabric cutting tips to make the cutting process easier and more enjoyable. Sharp tools! Make sure that your cutting tool is sharp, no matter if it is a rotary cutter or scissors. Small nicks in a rotary cutter can cause problems in that if it does not cut all the way through, there is the chance that it will become misaligned as you try to make the cut go through the fabric, either by trying to pull it or re-cutting. Pre-wash the fabric. This can help in the cutting process by allowing you to align the fabric, selvage to selvage, then folding it in half. The fold in the fabric straight off the bolt does not mean that the fabric is aligned correctly. In fact, most times, it is misaligned. Once the fabric is washed and folded, press the fold. Start with a clean, even edge. Once the fabric is aligned, it is time to cut the edge. This can be accomplished by first laying the fabric on a flat surface, with the fold closest to you and the aligned selvages away from you. Snip the fabric close either edge on the fold. If you are right-handed, snip the left edge, and vice-versa. Once you snip it, then tear the fabric from the fold to the selvages. Tearing it assures that it will clean up on the straight of grain. Once done, realign the selvages, place the folded side of the fabric closest to you, and smooth it out (press it before placing it on the flat surface, if it needs it). Using an acrylic ruler, align a straight, marked line with the fold, leaving approximately 1 inch of fabric past the side of the ruler, then cut. Use this edge to cut the rest of the fabric. Check the alignment of the ruler with the edge of the fabric every few cuts to make sure that it remains clean and even. Layering fabric. The safest way to assure that your cuts are clean is to not cut more than the two (2) layers created by placing it on the flat surface with the fold closest to you. Notice that I said “safest”. It is also the slowest. It is possible to fold the fabric once more, bringing the selvages up to the fold. Should you decide to do this, make absolutely sure that there are no creases or mini-folds within the fabric. Cutting multiple same-size strips. If cutting strips that are all the same size, you can speed the cutting up by placing a piece of tape on top of the ruler on the edge of the size you need. This way, instead of having to search for the measurement each time, you can simply align the tape with the edge of the fabric. This visually makes the cutting easier and faster. Stable acrylic ruler. If the ruler is not firmly held in place and is allowed to slip and slide, this can cause cuts to be uneven. There are items that can be used to help stabilize the ruler, including pre-made sandpaper dots that stick to the underneath side of the ruler or you can also simply fold tape back on itself (or use double-sided tape) and stick it to the back.      Hopefully, these tips aid you in cutting more accurately. The old saying, “Measure twice; cut once.” is really the prudent thing to do. It takes but a second to carefully glance at the ruler and the fabric before making the cut.      Lastly, if your cut strips have “bulges” near the fold or if one end of your strip is wider than the other, then it would definitely pay for you to at least try one or more of the tips above.      Do you have any tips that you would like to share? If so, please leave your comments!      Good luck and happy cutting!

Quilting By Design Site Map.
Original article first published on Quilting Passion by Terry Crawford.

quilting, quilts, quilting fabric, fabric, fabric cutting, rotary cutter

“Freezer paper to appliqué”, you ask? You bet!

     The word Appliqué is the French term meaning ‘to apply’ and is a beautiful and creative expression in which fabric shapes are stitched to a background.
     There are several different ways to use freezer paper for appliqué. The technique presented here is useful for simple shapes and fairly large appliqué pieces, making it the perfect method for beginners to learn how to appliqué.
     Freezer paper can be usually be found in the paper products area of your local supermarket or discount store. It is plastic coated and comes in a box similar to aluminum foil (and will probably be in the same section). Because of the plastic coating, one side of the paper is shiny, while the other side appears dull. It is the shiny side of the paper that will iron onto fabric, and also easily peel off. The ability of the freezer paper to peel off is extremely helpful when you have need of making multiple appliqué pieces that are identical because the freezer paper template piece is reusable (usually between 3-6 times).

     Items you will need:

1. Marking tool (permanent pen works well),
2. Scissors (both paper, to cut the freezer paper, and fabric),
3. Fabric pieces,
4. Appliqué pattern(s),
5. Silk pins (or a pin with a flat head),
6. Glue stick or an iron to press creases,
7. Needle & thread, if you hand-appliqué; Sewing machine if you don’t,
8. Thimble (if you use one to appliqué),
9. Tweezers (optional),
10. Freezer paper (duh)!

BASIC STEPS!
     To begin with, examine your appliqué pattern. Is it symmetrical (in other words, can you visually cut the pattern in half and each half be a mirror image of the other)? If so, then you can simply place a piece of freezer paper, waxy side down, on the pattern and trace the pattern onto the dull side of the freezer paper. If the pattern is asymmetrical (each half is NOT a mirror image to the other), then you will have to first trace the pattern onto tracing paper, then turn the tracing paper over and retrace it onto the dull side of the freezer paper. If you do not do this for asymmetrical patterns, the pattern will end up reversed on the fabric.
     As you trace your patterns onto the freezer paper, make sure to place them close to one another, but be sure to leave enough room between the tracings to cut them apart easily. You DO NOT add a turn-under seam allowance to the freezer paper patterns. Carefully cut out the freezer paper patterns on the traced line. Be sure to cut smoothly and not leave any jagged edges because these jagged edges may show up when you fold the fabric over the edge to appliqué it. NOTE: I always use my ‘paper-cutting’ scissors for this job. I never use any of my ‘good’ scissors to cut paper. TIP: To make multiple templates of the same shape, fold the freezer paper several times and cut through all of the layers at one time.
     Place the freezer paper patterns waxy side down on the WRONG side of the fabric and press them with a dry iron on a medium setting until they adhere to the fabric. Be sure to place them far enough apart that you can cut a ¼” turn-under allowance for each pattern. You can ‘eyeball’ this measurement. As long as you’re close (without going over), it’s fine. I actually prefer a 3/16″ turn-under allowance.
     If you have any patches with curves (like hearts), carefully clip the fabric up to within 2 or 3 threads of the freezer paper. This does two things: 1) Gives you enough fabric to keep it from fraying, and 2) Gives you enough fabric to anchor your stitches when you appliqué it on.
     Use a dry iron to press the turn-under allowances up and over the edge of the freezer paper. It is not necessary to baste the seam allowances. *IF* I am feeling particularly lazy and I am sitting in my recliner all comfy-like, and do not want to get up to go press these at this point, I use a glue stick along the seam allowance only on the fabric and fold the fabricover and allow the glue to adhere the fabric to the edges of the freezer paper. Then I finger press them into place (this is the best time to smooth edges, especially curves). One major drawback to using a glue stick, rather than pressing the fabric over onto the freezer paper: If you wait long enough before you appliqué the piece on and the glue dries, it’s a little bit harder to remove the freezer paper. You just have to be more careful in the removal.
     At this point, pin the fabric patches to your background fabric. Now, you can either appliqué the fabric patches to the background fabric by hand or by machine. If using a machine, use a very fine nylon thread (practically invisible) in the top and a cotton thread in the bobbin. Select the blind stitch (which takes a couple of straight stitches, then zigzags to the left once, then repeats the process). Make sure that the straight part of the blind stitch follows the outside edge of the fabric patch. Also, reduce the stitch width so that the zigzag part only catches a couple of threads in the appliqué. More appliqué tips are given on this same Web site.
     After the fabric patch has been sewn into place, turn it over and carefully cut away the background fabric from the underneath side. Try to leave approximately ¼” seam allowance.
     At this point, the freezer paper is visible. Remove it carefully. I usually remove mine by hand, however, using tweezers works very well, also.

CONCLUSIONS:
     The freezer paper method is my favorite way to appliqué. I throw all of my fabric patches (with the freezer paper ironed to them) into a small plastic bag, then put it into a larger plastic bag along with my scissors, needle, thread, etc., and away I go. Portable appliqué.
     Freezer paper is also an excellent resource for paper-piecing! Watch for articles regarding paper-piecing here in the near future.
     Two final thoughts: 1) I’ve found that appliqué is like a lot of other things in life: The more you practice, the better you become. And if I go for several months without appliquéing, I find that I have to get back into the swing of things again in order for the appearance to get back to what I like it to be, and 2) Freezer paper can also be used in needle-turn appliqué! Instead of pressing the freezer paper template to the wrong side of the fabric, press it to the right side. You would then still cut the piece out, leaving approximately 1/4″ for the seam allowance. Once cut out, place the pattern piece (with the freezer paper still on it) onto your project, pin (or tack it with washable glue) it in place somewhere in the middle of the piece, then use the edge of the freezer paper as your guide to turning the edges under as you appliqué the piece in place. Remove the freezer paper when finished and store it. It is reusable!
     Good luck and happy appliquéing with freezer paper!

NOTE: This original article first written by Quilting Passion and is copyrighted.

OTHER RESOURCES: Quilting Passion, Quilt Geek, CD Designs, Horizon Quilt Patterns, QuiltBus

applique, quilting, freezer paper

Appliquéd Rose, Pattern from Quilting Passion
     The word Appliqué is the French term meaning ‘to apply’ and is a beautiful and creative expression in which fabric shapes are stitched to a background.
     I’ve always admired appliquéd quilts, especially a Baltimore Album quilt, but was hesitant to try my hand at it (no pun intended) because I’d never quilted before and I’d never thought of myself as having a steady hand, capable of doing intricate work. I also thought I’d never have the patience required to appliqué. Big surprise.
     After becoming interested in quilting, I enrolled in a local quilt shop’s (The Quilter’s Nook in Tulsa, OK, which is no longer in business, unfortunately!) beginning quilting class. The object of this class was to complete a wallhanging made up of four blocks: Two were pieced, two were appliquéd. What a project to undertake with my new-found addiction! With the help of a fabulous teacher, I hand-pieced, hand-appliquéd, and hand-quilted this wallhanging. It’s currently hanging in the downstairs, guest bedroom. It’s one of my proudest quilting accomplishments.
     I’d like to share with you a few tips that I’ve learned along the appliqué path of life. Most of these were learned the hard way; by trial and error. Mostly error. Hopefully, by giving you a few tips, you will not have as many errors!

1. I strongly suggest pre-washing 100% cotton fabrics for most appliqué projects. Especially if the colors are extremely bright or they are specialty fabrics (such as batiks or hand dyes). In the above mentioned wallhanging, I used a bright fuchsia print. I pre-washed the fabric and was shocked to find that it still bled onto my white on white background after washing it the first time once it was finished. It took several launderings for it to finally quit bleeding. Had I watched the rinse water upon my initial pre-washing of the fabric and seen the dye still bleeding into it, I’d have washed it again. You can probably get by with not pre-washing blends. But I won’t risk it again on 100% fabrics that even look like they might bleed!
2. 100% cotton fabrics are best for most appliqué projects. Blends usually don’t crease nearly as well and also need pressing at a cooler temperature than cotton. I especially like the feel of appliquéing with batik fabrics.
3. Silk, lamé, and similar fabrics may need stabilized with an iron-on product fused to the wrong side before appliquéing.
4. When making templates, I prefer heat-resistant plastic over cardboard. Plastic templates hold their shape while I’ve found that cardboard ones don’t always (they can be ‘indented’ by marking too closely to it with your marking pen/pencil). Sewing your appliqué piece onto your background fabric is much easier if you first turn the edges of the fabric up over the template and press the crease. This can be aided by lightly brushing starch around the edge of the appliqué piece. I use a cotton swab on a stick.
5. The best method for me to appliqué is using freezer paper. It’s simple and I find that it gives the piece that I’m appliquéing enough stability to make working with it a snap. Simply trace the pattern piece onto the freezer paper, cut it out, then iron it onto the back side of your fabric. When you cut around your freezer paper pattern on the fabric, be sure to leave ¼” seam allowance. Fold the ¼” seam allowance over the back onto the freezer paper. I use glue from a glue stick to hold it in place, making sure to firmly crease it with my fingertips. Then, pin the ready-to-appliqué piece into place, ready to be stitched using an appropriate stitch.
6. When using the freezer paper method, after the appliquéd piece is finished, I turn it over and carefully clip the back side and cut out the inner portion of the base foundation beneath the appliquéd piece. I then carefully remove the freezer paper.
7. There are several methods of appliqué stitches. The stitch I choose depends on what I want the finished look of the quilt to be. I prefer invisible appliqué, but the blanket stitch, sometimes called button-hole stitch is also one of my favorite. To ensure invisible stitches, match the thread to the appliqué shape. 100% cotton sewing thread is recommended.
8. A small embroidery or appliqué needle is preferred.
9. Silk pins work great when pinning your piece to the foundation. Place pins every ¾ to 1″, perpendicular to the edge of the shape. Flat head flower pins also are good to use.
10. Instead of pinning a narrow shape, such as a flower stem, to the foundation, I use a glue stick to adhere it.
11. Always bring your needle up from the back of the appliqué piece to the front in the crease in order to hide the knot of your thread.
12. Some areas on appliqué pieces are hard to turn under without clipping. Make sure you don’t clip beyond your turn-under allowance. Clip only on concave curves (those curves that are shaped like VERY relaxed u’s) or at a “V” area, such as at the top of a heart. If you clip two or three threads short of the line you’ll be turning under on, it will give you enough fabric to anchor your stitches and also will help prevent fraying.
13. Turn off the steam when pressing your appliqué pieces. You’ll be working with your fingers near the iron and steam burns hurt! Steam can also stretch your fabric. If you do choose to press your pieces (as I do), make sure you press and not iron! What’s the difference? Pressing is a technique using an up and down motion from the iron to the fabric. Ironing is a technique using a side to side motion on the fabric, without picking it up. Ironing can distort fabric. Pressing shouldn’t distort.
14. I place all of my appliqué pieces into a zippable-type plastic bag. I also place my appliqué scissors, thread, needles, and other items I use in another zippable-type bag. I then place both of these bags into a larger bag. This makes my appliqué project portable.
15. A helpful (and comforting) tip that I’ve figured out on my own is that good appliquéing skills come with practice. And just because one project looks great this time doesn’t mean another one will look equally as good a few months from now. Why? Because practice *does* make all the difference in the world. Without appliquéing on a steady basis, one can become rusty. Unfortunately. But it is also comforting to know that it doesn’t take much time to get back into the swing of appliquéing if you do get rusty!

     Appliqué is one of the most rewarding aspects of quilting that I enjoy. It is relaxing, portable, easy, has a wide variety of techniques, and looks great!

     NOTE: This original article first written by Quilting Passion and is copyrighted.

     OTHER RESOURCES: Appliqué, Embroidery, Redwork

quilts, applique, freezer paper, blanket stitch, button-hole stitch, quilting

When last we left our intrepid heroine, I was trying to figure out the various techniques of machine applique that would give me a nicely finished edge.

This is the test piece for a larger quilt of snowflakes. I’ve tried various techniques here: a narrow zig-zag on one snowflake; sewing a scant 1/32 of an inch inside the cut line on another.
The Fusible webbing makes it impossible to needle turn the snowflakes.
See what you think.

This is the zig-zagged snowflake

This is the edge stiched snowflake

I’m not sure that either technique isreally satisfactory for a rugged , to be used quilt, but the edge stitched technique does give a nice effect for a wall hanging. I was pleasantly surprised.

machine applique

Pictures of my dyeing . Pictures of failed attempts at patchwork. Pictures of what looks like it will work.

I’ve been drawing, I’ve been gathering patches, I’ve been clearing a table, I’ve moved the sewing machine, I’m set, hep and ready to go on my newest quilt. So what am I really doing? I’m dyeing a jacket.
My daughter has a wonderful black jacket with red embroidery she’s worn for 2 years straight. So now the black is more a charcoal grey and not so good looking. I thought that re-dying the entire jacket in black would be a bad idea since the embroidery would be lost. But re-dyeing it red would deepen the grey to , well something closer to black while revitalizing the embroidery.
I’m boiling the jacket on the stove. My kitchen looks like something out of a haunted house, red liquid and unidetifyable black stuff in the pot, red drips everywhere….
What we don’t do for our kiddies.
On a different note, I’ve been researching quilting on the web looking for ideas for the stash and found a set of really interesting articles and pictures on Dutch patchwork. There was a brief explosion of Dutch women making “Celebration” or Festival skirts out of old fabrics saved from before the war. There were instructions on how to make these and a registry for them. I’m attaching thel inks since they tell the story better than I ever could. Neat stuff.

patchwork quilt, quilting, quilts, charm